![]() ![]() So yes, some people will likely be hanging out at Lord’s to catch Dame’s second act, a tiny speck where you’ll have to spill the blood of a one-eyed hawk during a lunar eclipse to get a decent reservation. I once asked the chef at a hip Roman eatery how long he was going to keep his delicious tripe pizza on the menu. Okay, maybe some guests don’t come because of the cow stomach. Firm strips of intestine wiggle in your mouth like a meaty panna cotta, ready to turn into liquid with a tongue flick. Szymanski instead braises it with veal’s feet until the whole dish takes on the texture of warm jelly. The organ often shows a firm, spaghetti-like texture elsewhere. As the empire of Margot Henderson and her husband Fergus continues to thrive in London – GQ dubbed the couple this year the “beating heart” of British cuisine – the crowds at Lord’s seem to suggest that New Yorkers wouldn’t mind more sticky, gut- charged cuisine that was once again prevalent in European-influenced eateries around the city (a cooking style that remains vital and popular in Sichuan, South Asian, Korean, Japanese and Latin American eateries).Ĭonsider the tripe of Madeira. This is what makes Howard and Szymanski’s restaurant come alive. By the time the city emerged from the Great Recession earlier in the decade, however, it already seemed like the future of meat eating in New York consisted solely of a series of expensive restaurants serving the same dry-aged steak for two. Many people stopped dining at Breslin and Babbo after detailed reports of abuse surfaced before the pandemic. Ssam Bar has discontinued its offal menu. Anthony Bourdain once called Henderson a “walking Buddha” and explained that he “completely expanded the pantry and gave chefs permission to cook the parts they’ve always wanted to cook”.įor a time, it seemed like the whole animal kitchen was the future of meat eating in New York. A few years later, he drew insane crowds for a guest dinner at Momofuku Noodle Bar that was stuffed with yakitori chitlins. John restaurateur published a hugely successful cookbook in 2004, the famous “Nose to Tail” Bible. Heck, even Per Se used to advertise a tasting of offal brimming with cerveaux, tripe and smoked marrow.īritish chef Fergus Henderson, perhaps more than anyone else, was the driving force behind the popular rise of these so-called nasty bits. Babbo has been cooking up brain ravioli and beef cheek noodles with shredded liver all decade. Remember 2006, when the motley cooks at Ssam Bar threw away so many leftovers the menu had a proper section of offal? A few years later, the Breslin began ordering two-hour waits for large format pig’s feet. Credit to owners Patricia Howard and chef Ed Szymanski, the duo behind Dame, for turning up the volume on the oldies and highlighting the type of food that blazed through New York’s gastronomic zeitgeist 15 years ago. Dining here feels like a Mid-aughts playlist full of Strokes and Phoenix. If chic Brooklyn party spots and hip Dimes Square haunts are New York’s hip restaurants, Lord’s is the complete opposite. See that duck-stuffed cabbage on the table next to you? Chefs grind the fowl using just a little bit of the liver, heart, and gizzards-organs that give the inky plum sauce a complex and earthy sweetness. Stilton-laced steam rises from ox cheek pie, the flaky outside coated in bone marrow butter. Black pudding and pork face enrich a cassoulet-like bean bowl. As New York continues to drown in generic brasseries and chophouses - places where most diners could recite the menu from memory without ever seeing it - one damn good restaurant in Greenwich Village fills the house with bold British fare.
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